LuxuryLodge Insider MAY 2009
Thank you all for the magnificent and enthusiastic response to my first newsletter. Clearly, there is a hunger out there for impartial information about luxury lodge accommodation. As ever, I welcome your feedback, ideas, comments, reviews.
Enjoy Issue 2!
[Henry Crawford is an Emmy award winning TV drama producer and was co-founder & proprietor of Fiji's Vatulele Island Resort 1987-2007 - find out more about Henry]
Post Ranch Inn & Cavallo Point Lodge | USA
POST RANCH INN - BIG SUR
Post Ranch Inn is consistently rated as one of the top lodges in America. It is located at Big Sur (between San Francisco and Los Angeles) not far from Carmel and its famous Pebble Beach Golf Course. Carmel is renowned for its terrific urban design standards and controls, which came about as a result of Clint Eastwood being cast in the role of the local mayor. It seems that everyone listened!
My friend Mike Freed spearheaded the group of initial investors who had the foresight to back the development of one of the first coastal approvals in the area. Post Ranch Inn celebrates a 17th birthday this April, having opened in 1992. It’s amazing success convinced Mike to give up his successful San Francisco commercial law practice and become a full time hotel developer.
The original 'Post' architect was Mickey Muennig who has lived in Big Sur since a trip there in 1971. He embraced ‘organic architecture’ before it was trendy to do so. As a result, the lodge inventory includes rooms that are part-buried in the earth as well as a number of ‘treehouses’. ‘Post’ was also one of the first properties to recognise that any halfway decent hotel should have a SPA. Well ahead of its time in many respects.
Peak season is mid June through October. You need to book early as it runs over 90% occupancy for much of the year.
Traveler's Choice Awards - Best for Romance - United States (TripAdvisor, 2009)
www.postranchinn.comCAVALLO POINT INN - SAUSALITO, MARIN COUNTY
Mike Freed’s latest project has been to refurbish and heritage protect an old San Francisco naval HQ called Fort Baker, just a stone’s throw from the Golden Gate bridge.
Cavallo Point Lodge is described as ‘a luxury hotel in the heart of the Golden Gate National Park’. Although its birth is recent, it has already been named in Travel+Leisure as ‘One of Ten New American Landmarks’.
Sausalito and the charming village of Mill Valley are on the doorstep. My first visit to Mill Valley was some fifteen years ago and I vividly recall its character being more European than American. This ‘feeling’ has no doubt been a factor in so many film makers and musicians setting up camp in the area.
Led by Michelin one-star executive chef Joseph Humphrey, Cavallo Point's signature restaurant, Murray Circle, features Bay Area cuisine with a French accent and showcases the bounty of local and organic farms, ranches and culinary artisans in the San Francisco Bay Area region. (They also run a cooking school).
Given the history of Post Ranch it follows that Cavallo Point has a wonderful spa program and healing centre.
Cavallo Point is a larger lodge than we would normally feature, but it's so unique and beautifully realised, I'm happy to make an exception!
Voyages | Australia
Voyages Resorts is selling their portfolio of properties, either as a package or individually. These include two of my favourites - the very popular LONGITUDE 131 (near Alice Springs) and WROTHAM PARK STATION (inland from Cairns in Tropical North Queensland). I've received a number of reports that some, not necessarily these two, are in need of an injection of funds to get them up to the standard they enjoyed when P&O Resorts ran them. This was under the fine stewardship of James Baillie (see next article). Unlike New Zealand's marvellous lodge assets, world class lodges are as scarce as hen's teeth in Australia, so one hopes that the porfolio falls into hands that understand them, and are prepared to fund standard.
Baillie Lodges - Australia
SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, KANGAROO ISLAND
Baillie Lodges is a dynamic company created by the marriage and business partnership of James and Hayley Baillie. Hayley is the daughter of entrepeneur, aviator and adventurer, Dick Smith, who initiated AUSTRALIAN GEOGRAPHIC in 1986.
James was founding Managing Director of P&O Australian Resorts and Hayley worked for more than a decade on board the world’s best expedition ships creating programs to enhance guests’ nature and adventure experiences. In my opinion Australia's best lodges were created under James' watch at P&O. They also aspired to, and achieved, a very high standard of delivery and personal service.
In early 2008 James and Hayley opened Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island. The dramatic coastal national park location, architectural integrity, locally influenced cuisine and personalised interpretive adventures ensured this new entrant immediate success.
CAPELLA LODGE, LORD HOWE ISLAND
Capella was their first property and is also located on an island - Lord Howe.
Located on Tasmania's dramatic Tasman Peninsula, Remarkable Lodge will continue the Baillie Lodges vision when it opens in 2010.
The company’s outstanding environmental credentials are demonstrated by past projects either within, or bordering, World Heritage listed national and marine parks.
Royal Mail Hotel | Victoria, Australia
Technically the Royal Mail doesn't fit our luxury lodge criteria, but the property is so interesting and worthwhile, it is hard to resist! This unique destination is set in an area called the Southern Grampian Ranges, about three hours drive from the city of Melbourne. The original building was established in 1855 and refurbished by Alan Myers QC, who has heavily invested in the area.
Until a little over a year ago, Dan Hunter was head chef at Andoni Aduriz's Mugaritz, the Basque country restaurant that is among the most popular of Spain's new elite. Now he's back in his home state and cooking up a storm. His world class culinary surprises are matched by one of the best wine lists in Australia.
The accommodation is simple and comfortable, and all of the restaurant dishes and wines are available as room service.
You can also stay at Mt Sturgeon Estate. Located three kilometres from the hotel, this is a fully operating sheep station nestled at the base of the looming Mount Sturgeon. The property produces more than 1,000 bales of superfine merino wool each year and still retains much of its historical charm. The original woolshed, shearers' cottages and the beautifully restored sandstone and bluestone homestead remain as testament to the estate's rich colonial past. Guests of the Mt Sturgeon Estate have full access to hotel facilities and complementary transfers to and from the hotel.
Australian Gourmet Traveller "Regional Restaurant of the Year 2009", Age Epicure "Country Restaurant of the Year 2009".
Carnation Hotels
Internationally acclaimed hotelier Terry Holmes, winner of the 2006 Caterer Tourism Award, joined Red Carnation Hotels in February 2006, bringing with him an incredible passion for the hospitality industry. His most interesting career ranges from a chef to Vice President in the luxury hotel business -including London's iconic Ritz Hotel.
The Red Carnation portfolio is now thirteen properties, and all are noted for their personal service. Two fit our luxurylodge criteria:
SUMMER LODGE - UK
Summer Lodge is located in Evershot, a sleepy little village in the heart of the Dorset countryside. The quintessentially 23 room English summer lodge has been a luxurious country retreat for over 200 years and home to the Earls of Ilchester since 1789. A member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group, Summer Lodge is known as much for its seasonal cuisine and exceptional wine list as it is for its ‘richly decorated’ accommodations.
Summer Lodge has just unveiled its scintillating programme of Wine Dinners for 2009. Each event will be overseen by the hotel’s cellar master, Eric Zwiebel, a UK Sommelier of the Year, runner up in the Best Sommelier in the World competition 2007, and Ruinart Third Best Sommelier in Europe 2006. These gatherings, which take place on the first Tuesday of the month, will explore some of the world’s great wine regions from Eric‘s native Alsace all the way to Cloudy Bay, New Zealand. They are both educational and convivial and Eric brings his highly individual blend of expertise, humour and charm.
In 2008 the lodge was placed 5th in Europe for Best Service (TripAdvisor, Travelers Choice) and was the recipient of Andrew Harper Hideaway Grand Award for strong individuality and devotion to personal service.
Bushman’s Kloof (South Africa)
Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Retreat in the Western Cape scored an impressive 90.5% overall in the 2009 Conde Nast Traveler Awards and was especially praised for the “amazing” scenery and “phenomenal” hot stone massage offered in the spa.
The friendliness of the staff was described as “truly memorable” and special mention was also made of the tours to the reserve’s numerous ancient rock-art sites provided by the resident archaeologist. Design, cuisine and the range of activities available were also rated highly by guests.
Bushmans Kloof is renowned for its rock-art legacy of an estimated 130 documented Bushman rock art sites and, since its inception ten years ago, has shown a rare dedication to preserving this heritage. It offers a unique wilderness experience at the foot of the Cederberg and was winner of the Relais & Chateaux Environment Trophy in 2007.
Blanket Bay | Queenstown, New Zealand
Blanket Bay is owned by San Francisco residents Tom and Pauline Tusher. Tom, who is the retired President of Levi Strauss purchased the Blanket Bay site in 1974.
His original concept was to build a modest getaway to enjoy with his friends and from which they could do a spot of fly-fishing. In retrospect this was an impossibly limiting dream as Tom is not a man who does things by halves.
The construction, which finished in 1999 was guided by Philip Jenkins, who sat with me on the Board of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Philip still enjoys a seat at the Board table and remains as General Manager of the lodge, which now enjoys a well deserved international reputation.
The final build is well in excess of the small and modest getaway in Tom's fishing dream. Yet it benefits from the elegant and relaxed homeliness they wanted, and has been enhanced by having Pauline's personal good-taste touches in the rooms and sculptures in the paddocks. The Tushers still manage to spend several months on site, and are creating new high quality residences for sale nearby (see: www.wyunapreserve.com).
Blanket Bay is an exceptionally comfortable base to explore the region. In this area helicopters tend to be used like cars, and they are the best way to see Milford Sound, go heli-fishing or heli-skiing.
Blanket Bay offers a "heli-skiing" menu to suit skiers and snowboarders with varying degrees of ability.
Contrary to the perception that heli-skiing is only reserved for the extreme skier/boarder, with New Zealand's unique geology you can heli-ski on moderate terrain (blue run equivalent) with your own private helicopter right from Blanket Bay's doorstep and personal guide. Average heli-ski runs are 700-800 vertical metres in the Southern Alps.
The Clarke Glacier situated only 9 minutes flight from Blanket Bay is a 1000m run from 2300m to 1300m on a moderate angle. Skiing glacial snow so close to your luxurious accommodation, doesn't get easier than this. (Note that winter months (June-August) are opposite of Northern hemisphere).
www.blanketbay.com
Villa Fontelunga | Tuscany, Italy
Eight years ago, at Easter, Nina and I took a trip through Tuscany. In search of adventure and surprise we made the mistake of not prebooking accommodation. After a week on the road, with appalling sleeping standards and indifferent hosts, we were ready to cut our losses and go home.
By chance our last stop was Villa Fontelunga, which is close to the border of Umbria. Our one night turned into four, and one of the best experiences we have had anywhere.
The elegant Villa Fontelunga is set above the Val di Chiana enjoying panoramic views across the Tuscan countryside. Crafted from a traditional Padronale ('master's house') the Villa is now a marriage of Tuscan style and contemporary design. The Villa has 8 double rooms sleeping up to 16 people and, on request, an additional Cottage suite is available accommodating an extra 2 people.
Paolo Kastelec, Philip Robinson and Simon Carey have renovated the 100 year old padronale house, giving it a contemporary twist. Inside the warm terracotta building, bedrooms are furnished with Philippe Starck and Arne Jacobsen in lieu of the usual rustic-antique pieces. Tuscan feasts are presented out-doors, under huge white umbrellas that frame the olive groves and medieval Cortona in the distance. Run like private house parties these dinners are wonderful especially when Paolo's mother, Ines, is in residence.
At the time we were there Nina's pregnancy brought out the best 'Italian mama' qualities in Ines, who lavished her with food and chocolates. Not discouraged by the fact that our Italian was limited to 'menu' level, and she spoke no English, thousands of words of advice were never-the-less dispensed by this beautiful and generous woman.
Villa Fontelunga grew out of an escape fantasy of Philip Robinson (a production designer for movies such as Howard's End and Four Weddings and a Funeral). Philip knew just how much groups of friends would appreciate everything the villa had to offer - the right level of thoughtful care with all the freedom of a traditional Italian villa holiday. It was up to Paolo Kastelec, an ex-London banker, to run the place, orchestrate fabulous meals and create the chilled and comfortable atmosphere that the villa gives off.
Paulo and I have stayed in contact over the years as they have gone from strength to strength. They have recently added three nearby villas to their inventory.
'Scannagallo' the largest of the 3 Villas within the Fattoria, is designed as a smaller version of Villa Fontelunga. Created for groups and families, the two-storey house has 4/5 bedrooms, living room with fire-place and large open plan dinning room/kitchen. This area opens directly onto the landscaped gardens, a terrace and stunning infinity pool with dramatic views over the countryside. 'Gallo' is set amidst the fields and hedgerows and designed for two couples or a family. 'Galletto' is the smallest of the three villas. The one bedroom honeymoon cottage, was built specifically for couples, who would like their own privacy with the economy of a smaller villa.
www.fontelunga.com
Tswalu Kalahari | South Africa
Tswalu Kalahari is South Africa’s largest private game reserve spanning over 1000 square kilometers and is owned by the well-known Oppenheimer family (De Beers Diamonds).
Tswalu offers guests a luxury safari experiences but its primary aim is conservation and socio economic development in the region. Tswalu means “a new beginning” in the Tswana language, as this conservation undertaking has a clear mission to restore the Kalahari to itself.
Away from the main lodge, and set amid two rolling mountain ranges, Tarkuni (which has just been refurbished) is the ultimate in secluded luxury and is perfect for small groups of up to 10 guests or for families.
The accommodation offers five luxury bedrooms with en suite bathrooms and outdoor heated showers, open plan lounge and dining room, library, covered patio and swimming pool. Here guests have their own private game viewing vehicle, as well as a dedicated host and chef.
Unlike other lodges children are welcome at Tswalu (including Tarkuni) so the experience works terrifically for families.
An interactive kids' camping program is offered for all ages. They are accommodated in tents or can sleep under the stars. All kids’ sleep-outs are accompanied by a Tswalu guide and senior staff member. Their programme includes learning to track animals, setting up camps, making a fire, bush cooking plus many other treats.
Tswalu was named in National Geographic Adventure Magazine’s Top 50 Eco-Lodges 2009
www.tswalu.com
In my last newsletter I reported on the marvellous Julian Robertson (New Zealand) lodges CAPE KIDNAPPERS and KAURI CLIFFS. The Robertsons are in the process of purchasing MATAKAURI, which is located right on the lake, just outside of Queenstown. Expect a major makeover and an added reason for including this destination in your plans. The new Matakauri will supplement the world-class accommodation offered by BLANKET BAY and EICHARDTS.
In other exciting news Julian and his wife, Josie have just gifted fifteen major artworks to the Auckland art Gallery. The works include significant paintings by Paul Cézanne, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Paul Gauguin and Piet Mondrian dating from the late 19th to mid 20th centuries, The total value of the works is between $200m and $250m and is the most significant collection gifted to any New Zealand Gallery - perhaps even southern hemispere gallery (?)
Julian Robertson is a leading New York investor who came to prominence in the business world as one of the most successful and dominant figures in the US financial market from 1980 when he co-founded Tiger Management LLC, which eventually became the world's largest hedge funds.
SIGNOFF
I hope this newsletter has been enlightening! The opinions expressed are my own and not tainted by any lodge 'sponsorship'. I encourage you to do your own research as well, and one of the most useful sites I could suggest is www.tripadviser.com.
If you make contact with any of the lodges I have included it may be helpful (to both of us!) if you let them know that you have been referred by me and LUXURYLODGE.com.
If you have friends or family who may appreciate the information in this and future newsletters, please forward this to them and have them register their email address at www.luxurylodge.com.